Eiding

We had our first Eid in Bahrain. There are two Eids in the Islamic calendar - Eid ul Fitr (the Eid that follows the fasting month of Ramadan) and Eid ul Adha (roughly falling two months and ten days after Eid ul Fitr). Last Eid ul Fitr we spent with extended family in London, after a bit of travel in Europe. This year it's just the three of us. Aaaaah yes, just the three of us... nice and cosy...what more could we want, right? Especially considering that back in Melb, Eid day was a carefully orchestrated series of visits interspersed with lunch and dinner. Back home, we never had time to ourselves.

I hate to say it - but, the grass is always greener isn't it?

This being the first time in a very long time (since uni years) that we've spent Eid away from family, we did a few things to compensate... eg, recreated our mothers' best dishes. We came close enough, but our imitations will only ever be just that...And now, here I am, sitting at the computer (in my Eid best). I've had a little spare time to write this entry... spare time on Eid day? That's definitely a first.

The Big Barhi

I'm not really partial to dates. In their traditional form, they're not the most attractive fruit around are they? Not that I should be holding their appearance against them, but they are kind of unimpressive looking, all shriveled-up and prune-like (sorry prune, but you're not so hot either). Sure, they're sweet, but so is every other fruit on the market.

Regardless of my tastes, the humble date is and always will be an Islamic icon. It has monopoly over the entire Muslim-market, world-over and at no time is this more visible than during Ramadan (especially as Muslims believe the Prophet Mohammed preferred to break his fast with a date).

Right now, dates are everywhere in Bahrain, plain dates, nut-filled dates, chocolate coated dates (white/milk/dark - take your pick) and the other day I also saw some coffee filled ones. As dates go, these spruced-up dates (from what I've tasted) are certainly good. But to be honest, I've usually eaten dates more out of a sense of tradition than enjoyment. This has changed since I discovered the Barhi variety. These dates are crisp in texture and as un-shriveled and un-prune-like as you can get. Now, I'm eating dates because I love them. The Barhi seems to be really popular in the Middle East, you buy them on the stalk and they kind of look like a bunch of grapes. Delicious, and with their high nutritional value, how can I go wrong with this indulgence? So this entry is my shout out to the humble date...the Barhi date to be precise. (Hmmm, Perhaps I should start lobbying for a 'Big-Pineapple' inspired 'Big-Barhi' in Bahrain, I think it could be a winner with the locals ;) )

Gargaon update: I didn't witness any Gargaon action, I did however have a little Gargaon surprise waiting for me when I got to work the next day. A box full box of goodies – chocolates, nuts and dry fruit, a little oil lamp and a doll. There was no card attached but it didn't take me long to figure out that the mystery gift-giver was my Bahraini friend - the one who educated me on Gargaon to begin with. When I went to thank her for her thoughtfulness, she said she wanted to share some Gargaon treats with my daughter and I. Nice:) )

My Bahraini friend is actually the main receptionist at the office I work at. She speaks English relatively well, not perfectly - but she gets by. She greets everyone each morning with a huge smile and a "Sabah hal Khair" (Good morning). Even through recent, brief bouts of adversity (a tooth infection and sprained ankle) she's kept smiling. She's a gem.

Trick or treat, Bahrain style

Halloween: Pagan festival of ghosts, ghouls, goblins and witches.

Ramadan: Muslim festival concentrating on themes of devotion, prayer, goodwill and charity.

Ummm...where's the link?

OK, I'm certainly not trying to be irreverent. I think I can explain this. We're over half-way through Ramadan and I've just learnt about "Gargaon". In my experience of Ramadan, there's a month of fasting followed by Eid ul-Fitr (celebration that marks the end of the Ramadan season). Apparently the way it works in Bahrain is that within the festival of Ramadan, there's a mini festival called Gargaon.

So, what is Gargaon?

Celebrated on the 15th day of Ramadan, the word Gargaon means "mixture of sweets, dates and dried nuts." On the evening of the 15th (after the Iftar - breaking of fast) children in traditional arabic dress, carrying drums and beautifully decorated bags, go around to the houses in their neighbourhood asking for gargaon (local kids must really like dates and dried nuts huh?). It's sort of like a local version of 'trick or treat' - without the tricks. A Bahraini colleague of mine has told me that sometimes people hold Gargoan parties for children and goody bags are beautifully decorated and distributed. There is also a kind or role play that goes on where someone performs the role of a knight on a wooden horse, called a 'Feraisa' who moves to the beat of a drum. I can't find any information on the origins of this story, might try and pop outside tonight to see if I can catch a glimpse of some action.

Above: Arabic bakery preparing for the pre-Iftar rush during Ramadan.

Ramadan Moon

I've been in Bahrain since June 2008 - and for the moment am (trying) to call it home. In the year that I've been here, I've come across so many stories, done so many things that I don't know where to begin...feel like I'm starting mid-way through a story:)

OK so let's start with this month, August 2009. What's so special about this month is that Ramadan starts towards the end of it. Ramadan is the name of the ninth lunar month of the Islamic calendar. It's the month that the Qur'an was revealed to the prophet Muhammad and for Muslims it's a month of ritual, devotion and fast. This year Ramadan starts on 22 August, but we don't know for sure until that date, as there's a margin of error and no confirmation until the sighting of the moon.

Bahrain, like it's neighbours in the region is a Muslim country but unlike a lot of its gulf neighbours is progressive in its outlook - ie, women can drive, women are relatively free to dress as they please, there are cinemas where foreign movies are shown (although all the rudey nudey bits might be edited out) and alcohol is available at hotels and restaurants (despite alcohol being forbidden in Islam). Having been here last Ramadan it was interesting to see the mood of the country change slightly - during Ramadan, the standards of decency and modesty shift a little to the right and alcohol (which ordinarily has a visible presence at the number of eateries and entertainment venues) disappears temporarily from public sight.

I don't drink, so for me, not an issue. I have a number of expat friends who have told me that they usually stock up on alcohol at home before the start of Ramadan because for them, a dry month is no fun. They say it's a case of "when you can't have something, you want it even more." The night before the last Ramadan began in 2008, my husband and I went out for dinner to a posh-ish restaurant. On the table beside us there was a group of Saudi men smoking and drinking away...indulging before the start of the Holy Month. Apparently, it's fairly common for the friendly neighbours to drive over the causeway that links Saudi Arabia to Bahrain to indulge in the sinful pleasures that Bahrain has on offer - especially immediately before and immediately after the Holy Month.

Anyway, getting back to what I was saying about the change of mood in Bahrain during Ramadan - during the day time all restaurants and eateries are closed and only open after the sunset prayer (called Magreb). Eating and drinking on the streets is not legally permitted and a lots of workplaces close shop at around 3pm - so a lot of people go home for a siesta before the feasting begins at sunset. The variety of food that's on offer for the "Iftar" (breaking fast) is amazing...more on that when Ramadan actually begins!